Ehime 2-Day Itinerary: Dogo Onsen, Uchiko, and Traditional Crafts

What Sort of Place Is Ehime?

Ehime Prefecture , located in the northwestern part of Shikoku Island, boasts a diverse landscape that ranges from winding coastlines to lush mountainous regions, which can be covered in snow in winter . With a population of about 1.3 million people, Ehime is celebrated for its warm hospitality, historical significance, and cultural richness.

Historically, Ehime played a pivotal role during Japan’s feudal era. Its capital, Matsuyama, is home to Matsuyama Castle, one of Japan’s twelve “original castles” that have survived since the Edo period (1603 - 1868). The region is also famed for Dogo Onsen, one of the country's oldest hot springs, believed to have over 3,000 years of history.

Ehime is synonymous with citrus, particularly “mikan” (a type of Japanese mandarin), which thrive in the region’s mild climate. Visitors can enjoy a variety of mikan-based products, from juices to sweets. The prefecture is also known for its traditional crafts, such as “Iyo-kasuri” (a type of textile dyeing) and “washi” (Japanese paper).

 In addition to its cultural and historical attractions, Ehime offers stunning natural beauty, with spots like the Shimanami Kaido - a scenic cycling route connecting Ehime to Hiroshima Prefecture - providing breathtaking views and outdoor adventures. Ehime’s unique blend of history, culture, and nature makes it a compelling destination for travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience in Japan.

How to Get There From Tokyo

Traveling from Tokyo to Ehime is straightforward. The fastest route is by air, with multiple daily flights from Haneda Airport to Matsuyama Airport, which take about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Upon arrival, a 15-minute taxi ride or a 25-minute bus ride will bring you to central Matsuyama.

Alternatively, for a more scenic journey, take the “shinkansen” bullet train  from Tokyo to Okayama, then transfer to the limited express train bound for Matsuyama. This option takes approximately 6-7 hours but offers a nice alternative for those who prefer slow travel and a lighter carbon footprint.

How to Get There From Osaka

From Osaka, travelers can reach Ehime by air or rail. Flights from Itami Airport or Kansai International Airport to Matsuyama Airport take about 1 hour. After landing, it’s a short taxi or bus ride to the city center.

For a rail adventure, take the shinkansen from Shin-Osaka to Okayama, then switch to the limited express train to Matsuyama. This route takes around 3-4 hours, offering a comfortable and scenic travel experience.

Day 1: Discovering Matsuyama’s Historic Charm

Get an early start to your Ehime explorations by hopping on the first flight from Haneda Airport in the morning. After arrival at Matsuyama Airport, take the bus to Matsuyama Castle  where you will be ready to start your adventure well before noon!

Matsuyama Castle

Take the bus from Matsuyama Airport to Ehime Shinbunsha Bus Stop. From Ehime Shinbunsha Bus Stop, it is a 12-minute walk to the castle

Total travel time: 25 minutes

Begin your journey with a visit to Matsuyama Castle, one of Japan's finest surviving castles. Accessible on foot or via a ropeway or chairlift, the castle provides panoramic views of the city and surrounding landscape.

The castle’s strategic design, with its complex system of hidden gates and 17-meter-tall walls, highlights the ingenuity of Japanese military architecture. Wander through its well-preserved interiors and marvel at its intricate defense systems and displays of armor, weapons, and historical artifacts that tell the story of the samurai era.

History and architecture buffs can easily spend hours here, and the expansive grounds invite for further explorations, especially during cherry blossom season or after sunset when the towering location provides unparalleled views of Matsuyama’s nightscape.

Dogo Onsen

Take the bus from Ropeway-mae Bus Stop to Dogo Onsen Station. From Dogo Onsen Station, it is a 4-minute walk to Dogo Onsen Main Building

Total travel time: 14 minutes

Dogo Onsen is a charming Matsuyama neighborhood best known for its namesake historic hot spring. This legendary onsen is said to have over three millennia of history and has been visited by emperors and commoners alike, all drawn to its reputedly healing waters.

This historic district has a distinctive nostalgic feel to it, and for a truly immersive experience, consider renting a yukata or kimono from Kimono No Asobiba. Dressing up in this traditional, elegant attire will not only enhance your visit but also provide excellent photo opportunities.

Start your onsen experience at the Dogo Onsen Main Building, a stunningly beautiful bathhouse that reopens on 11th of July 2024 after undergoing extensive renovations to carefully restore the building to its original glory. The architecture itself is a masterpiece, blending traditional Japanese aesthetics with a touch of Western influence. Made up of seven different buildings that have been joined together over centuries, the inside of the bathhouse is full of unique details, such as staircases and floor dividers in unusual locations.

Inside, the Main Building offers several bathing options with names such as Tamanoyu (Spirit Bath) and Kaminoyu (Bath of the Gods), and its famous hot spring source is said to rejuvenate both body and soul. As you soak in the warm waters, imagine the countless generations who have done the same, feeling the stresses of modern life melt away.

Botchan Karakuri Clock and Botchan Train

Walk from Dogo Onsen Main Building to Botchan Karakuri Clock and Botchan Train

Total travel time: 2 minutes

After your bath, it’s time to head out to explore the surrounding area. The Botchan Karakuri Clock and Botchan Train are must-see attractions nearby. The clock was erected to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Dogo Onsen Main Building in 1994, and it comes alive with a delightful performance every hour. The show features characters from Natsume Soseki’s famous novel, “Botchan”, in which Dogo Onsen is part of the setting.

The Botchan Train, a charming replica of a Meiji-era steam locomotive, offers a nostalgic ride through the area. This train is more than just transportation; it's a moving piece of history, taking you on a journey through time. It doesn’t run everyday though, as the line is also served by regular trams, so check the timetables in advance.

Lunchtime: Tai Meishi, Ehime’s Soul Food

Walk from Botchan Karakuri Clock and Botchan Train to Akiyoshi

Total travel time: 4 minutes

For lunch, don’t miss out on the opportunity to try “tai meshi”, a traditional Ehime dish featuring sea bream served over rice. This delicacy is a local favorite, known for its delicate flavors and fresh ingredients.

Traditionally, the dish comes in two variants depending on location within the prefecture: in central Ehime, whole sea bream is cooked with the rice, while the southern regions place raw sea bream sashimi on top of boiled rice before pouring over a sauce made with eggs and various condiments. For your fill of this mouthwatering local speciality, we recommend heading to Akiyoshi located along Dogo Shotengai Shopping Street, a restaurant that offers a cozy atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a leisurely tai meshi meal.

Dogo Shotengai

Spend your afternoon exploring the rest of Dogo Shotengai, a bustling shopping street filled with local treats and souvenirs. This lively area is the perfect place to find cute mementos of your trip. Don’t miss the chance to try “Botchan dango” at Tsuboya Kashiho. This tricolor dumpling snack has been a local favorite for generations, and the combination of mochi, sweet red bean paste, and matcha will surely delight your taste buds.

After this sweet treat, get refreshed with some delicious mandarin juice at 10Factory Dogo Onsen. Made from locally grown mikan, this juice is a burst of natural sweetness and a perfect way to stay hydrated as you explore.

Dogo Onsen Sky Walkway & Footbath

Walk from 10Factory Dogo Onsen to Dogo Onsen Sky Walkway & Footbath

Total travel time: 5 minutes

Next, take a leisurely walk along the Dogo Onsen Sky Walkway & Footbath, a beautifully designed path that offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding hills. The walkway is a serene place to appreciate the beauty of Matsuyama. Seasonal flowers such as cherry blossoms, hydrangea and camellia can also be enjoyed along the path, and in the evening it is lit up, giving off a very romantic atmosphere.

After your stroll, unwind at the footbath located at the end of the walkway. Here, you can soak your feet while enjoying the view and perhaps chat with fellow travelers.

Isaniwa Shrine

Walk from Dogo Onsen Sky Walkway & Footbath to Isaniwa Shrine

Total travel time: 4 minutes

Your last stop of the day is Isaniwa Shrine, a majestic structure perched atop a steep staircase only a few minutes’ walk from central Dogo Onsen. The climb is rewarded with impressive views of Matsuyama and the Seto Inland Sea while the shrine itself boasts stunning architecture and offers a serene atmosphere.

The history of Isaniwa Shrine dates back to the 17th century, and it is one of Japan’s three great Hachiman shrines. The striking vermilion buildings, double-storey gate, and intricate carvings are a testament to the craftsmanship of the Edo period and have earned the shrine status of Important Cultural Property.

Stay at Yamatoya Besso

Walk from Isaniwa Shrine to Yamatoya Besso

Total travel time: 8 minutes

End your day with a luxurious stay at Yamatoya Besso. This traditional “ryokan” Japanese inn offers "tatami"-matted rooms and exquisite “kaiseki” multi-course Japanese cuisine and, with its serene gardens and tranquil atmosphere, is the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploration.

The rooms at Yamatoya Besso are a blend of traditional Japanese aesthetics and modern comforts and features private onsen baths. Relax on the tatami mats, enjoy a cup of green tea, and take in the view of the meticulously maintained garden.

Meals are served in the comfort of your own room, and dinner is a highlight. The kaiseki meal features seasonal ingredients and beautifully presented dishes. Each course is a work of art, offering a taste of Ehime’s culinary heritage.

After dinner, take a relaxing soak in the ryokan’s onsen, which features both indoor and outdoor baths. The mineral-rich waters will soothe your muscles and prepare you for a restful night’s sleep.

Day 2: Exploring Uchiko's Artisanal Heritage

Today, you will venture beyond the prefectural capital of Matsuyama and visit Uchiko, a charming town renowned for its well-preserved Edo and Meiji period architecture. This picturesque area, once a prosperous center for wax and paper production, now draws visitors with its historical ambiance.

Chestnut Dye Experience and Tarai Udon Lunch

Take the bus from Dogo Onsen to Matsuyama Station (30 minutes), then get on the Limited Express train bound for Uchiko Station (30 minutes).

Total travel time: 60 minutes

Meet your guide at Uchiko Station at 8:50 am and take a local bus to a nearby chestnut farm.

Total travel time: 50 minutes

Begin your day with a unique chestnut dye experience with Uchiko Genic. This hands-on activity offers an opportunity to learn about natural dyeing techniques using chestnut tannins.

At the workshop, you’ll be guided through the process of preparing the dye and applying it to fabric. The natural tannins from chestnuts produce a warm, earthy hue, and this experience not only teaches you about a traditional craft but also allows you to create a unique souvenir in the form of a handkerchief.

After the dyeing workshop, enjoy a hearty tarai udon lunch. Tarai udon is a local specialty served in a wooden tub, or “tarai”. The thick noodles are served with a flavorful broth based on shiitake, sardines and soybeans.

Uchikoza Kabuki Theater

Escorted by your guide, take a local bus from the chestnut farm back to Uchiko Station. Walk from Uchiko Station to Uchikoza.

Total travel time: 60 minutes

After being escorted back to Uchiko Station by your guide, head out to explore on your own. Uchiko houses Uchikoza, a beautifully preserved "kabuki" theater. Built in 1916, this historic venue is one of only a handful of traditional theaters in Japan that still hosts performances.

On days where no performances are held, visitors can enter the theater and backstage area, where you can see the complex mechanisms used to create special effects and stage transitions. Stand on the grand stage in front of the iconic pine tree painting and envision being a kabuki star, or make your way through the basement tunnels while imagining the hurriedly coming and going of actors and staff on a show night.

Uchiko Yokaichi Gokoku Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings

Walk from Uchikoza to Uchiko Yokaichi Gokoku Preservation District.

Total travel time: 10 minutes

Stroll through the Uchiko Yokaichi Gokoku Preservation District where you'll find meticulously preserved buildings from the Edo, Meiji and Taisho periods. A 600-meter stretch of street is lined with old merchant houses, offering a glimpse into Japan’s past and Uchiko’s history as a wealthy town prospering from the production of wax, paper, and silk.

As you walk through the narrow streets, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The light yellow-coloured walls and tiled roofs of the traditional buildings create a charming backdrop for exploration, and many have been repurposed as galleries, shops, and cute cafes.

Ikazaki Shachu Gilded Washi Workshop

Take a taxi from Uchiko Yokaichi Gokoku Preservation District to Ikazaki Shachu.

Total travel time: 5 minutes

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In the afternoon, join a workshop at Ikazaki Shachu. Learn the intricate art of making gilded washi paper, a traditional craft that has been passed down through generations.

In the past, washi paper from Ikazaki was revered for its quality and used in the fine art of calligraphy as well in the making of beautiful “shoji” screen doors. In recent years, the art of paper-making has been in decline due to modernisation, but in this rural corner of Ehime, locals fight to keep the craftsmanship alive.

The workshop offers a hands-on experience, where you can try your hand at applying gold leaf to washi paper to create intricate designs. The instructors are skilled artisans who will guide you through each step of the process, ensuring that you leave with a beautiful piece of gilded washi to take home. Don’t forget to visit the shop, which is filled with the most gorgeous washi paper designs you could ever imagine - from letter sets and book covers to lampshades and table mats.

After the workshop, take a taxi back to Uchiko Station (10 minutes) to board the Limited Express train bound for Matsuyama (30 minutes). Head back to Dogo Onsen for another evening of well-deserved onsen relaxation and mouthwatering cuisine to conclude your Ehime getaway.

Experience the Best of Ehime in 2 Days

A trip to Ehime Prefecture offers a perfect blend of relaxation, history, and cultural immersion. From the therapeutic waters of Dogo Onsen to the artisanal charm of Uchiko, you’ll be able to experience the best of what Ehime has to offer in just two days. The region’s rich history, stunning natural beauty, and vibrant culture make it a destination that should not be missed. So pack your bags, and get ready for an unforgettable journey. Ehime’s unique attractions and warm hospitality will leave you enchanted and eager to return.