Tottori 3-Day Itinerary: Tottori Sand Dunes, Historic Onsen, and Yokai

What Sort of Place Is Tottori, Japan?

Located on Japan’s western coast along the Sea of Japan, Tottori Prefecture is a tranquil and picturesque region known for its stunning natural landscapes, including the country’s largest sand dune system and the majestic Mt. Daisen. With a population of around 540,000, Tottori is the least populous prefecture in Japan, which adds to its charm as a peaceful retreat from the bustling cities.

Tottori is most famous for the Tottori Sand Dunes, the largest dunes in Japan which stretch along the coast and offer breathtaking views and unique activities such as camel rides and sandboarding. The prefecture is also renowned for its historical sites, including Kurayoshi’s well-preserved white-walled storehouses and the ancient Sanbutsuji Temple nestled in the mountains.

The prefecture is also a haven for food enthusiasts. Tottori’s coastal location ensures a bounty of fresh seafood, with the local “matsuba” crab being a particular delicacy. Additionally, the region is known for its succulent Asian pears, considered some of the best in Japan. The grazing cattle on Mt. Daisen provides the prefecture with an abundance of fresh milk, which is turned into dairy products such as the famous soft serve ice cream.

Tottori’s hot springs, particularly those at Misasa Onsen, offer a perfect retreat for relaxation and rejuvenation. These onsen are renowned for their high radon content, believed to have therapeutic properties. Visitors can soak in the healing waters, surrounded by beautiful natural scenery, making it an ideal way to unwind after a day of exploration.

Tottori can be visited year-round, with spring showcasing gorgeous cherry blossoms at parks and temple grounds and summer offering the chance to spot fireflies while enjoying some of the prefecture’s many outdoor activities. Fiery foliage can be seen during autumn, which is particularly good for hiking, while in winter, you’ll be able to ski on the slopes of Mt. Daisen - sometimes, even the sand dunes get covered in a thin layer of glistening white snow, providing an unforgettable sight.

How to Get There From Tokyo

From Tokyo, you can reach Tottori by taking a flight from Haneda Airport to Tottori Airport, which takes about 1.5 hours. The airport is conveniently located, and upon arrival, you can easily access the city center by bus (20 minutes) or taxi (12 minutes). This option is ideal for those looking to maximize their time in Tottori, providing a quick and efficient way to start your adventure.

Alternatively, for a scenic journey, you can travel by shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo Station to Himeji Station, which takes about 3 hours. From Himeji, transfer to the Super Hakuto limited express train to Tottori Station, which takes around 1 hour and 40 minutes. This route allows you to enjoy the beauty of Japan’s countryside, passing through picturesque towns and lush landscapes.

For true rail enthusiasts, or for those who prefer slow travel or to save on accommodation, another convenient and enjoyable way to access Tottori Prefecture is by overnight train from Tokyo Station. Sunrise Izumo is Japan’s last regular sleeper train which has one daily departure in each direction.

Trains depart Tokyo at 21:50 and arrive in Yonago the next morning at 9:05 - a great access point to Sakaiminato. The train features a variety of classes, from simple dormitory-style areas where you will sleep on the floor, to private rooms for 1 or 2 people.

How to Get There From Osaka

Traveling from Osaka to Tottori is convenient and straightforward. You can take the Super Hakuto limited express train directly from Osaka Station to Tottori Station, a journey that takes approximately 2.5 hours. The Super Hakuto train offers comfortable seating and scenic views, making the trip both pleasant and efficient.

Day 1: A Day of Natural Wonders

Tottori Sand Dunes

Access: Take the bus from Tottori Station to bus stop “Sakyu-kaikan” or “Sakyu-higashiguchi” (20 minutes)

Tottori Sand Dunes are an awe-inspiring natural wonder that spans over 14 kilometers along the Sea of Japan. These dunes, reaching heights of up to 50 meters, offer a surreal desert-like landscape with stunning ocean views.

The Tottori Sand Dunes are not just a vast expanse of sand; they are a dynamic and ever-changing landscape. The dunes were formed over thousands of years by sediment deposits carried by the Sendai River and shaped by the coastal winds. This constant movement and transformation of the sands create an enchanting environment that feels both ancient and alive.

For those looking to explore the dunes up close, camel rides offer a fun and unique way to traverse the sandy terrain. Riding a camel through the dunes provides a perspective that feels reminiscent of ancient desert caravans, and this is the only place in Japan providing the opportunity for such an experience. Alternatively, for the more adventurous, sandboarding down the dunes offers an adrenaline-pumping activity that’s akin to snowboarding, but on sand.

Paragliding over the dunes provides a bird’s-eye view of this magnificent landscape, allowing you to soar above the sandy waves and take in the breathtaking scenery. The dunes’ proximity to the sea adds a stunning contrast between the golden sands and the deep blue ocean, creating a mesmerizing vista.

Lunch: Seafood at Taiki

Access: 5-minutes walk from the Tottori Sand Dunes Visitor Centre

After exploring the dunes, head to nearby seafood restaurant “Taiki” which offers a culinary experience that captures the essence of the Sea of Japan. Tottori is renowned for its abundant and fresh seafood, thanks to the nutrient-rich waters home to a diverse array of marine life. Taiki capitalizes on this natural bounty, presenting a menu brimming with the region’s finest catches. 

The restaurant’s seafood bowls, or “kaisendon,” are particularly celebrated for their freshness and variety. Each bowl is topped with sashimi made from the catch of the day and can include succulent cuts of tuna, salmon, squid, and local delicacies such as matsuba crab and white shrimp.

Although the shop is small and easy to overlook due to its humble appearance, this restaurant is hugely popular, and making a reservation in advance by phone is recommended. 

Tottori Sand Museum

Access: 4-minute walk from Taiki

Next, visit the Tottori Sand Museum, located near the sand dunes. This unique museum showcases massive, intricate sand sculptures created by artists from around the globe. Each year, the museum features a different theme, ensuring a fresh and captivating experience with every visit.

The sculptures at Tottori Sand Museum are not just impressive in their scale but also in their detail and artistry. Created entirely from sand, these sculptures depict scenes from history, mythology, and popular culture, each crafted with incredible skill and precision. The museum’s annual themes have included everything from ancient civilizations to modern culture across the world, providing a diverse and engaging experience. The 2024-exhibition is the 15th of its kind since the opening of the museum and is centered around the theme of French culture to mark the year of the Paris Olympics and Paralympics.

Visitors can walk through the museum and marvel at the sculptures, which often include lifelike representations. The museum also offers insights into the techniques and tools used by the artists, providing a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship involved in creating these temporary masterpieces.

Dinner: Gyukotsu Ramen in Kurayoshi

Access: Take the bus from bus stop “Suna no Bijutsukan” to Tottori Station (30 minutes). Then, travel from Tottori Station to Kurayoshi Station using the local train (1 hour) or limited express train (30 minutes).

 Kurayoshi is famous for its “gyukotsu” ramen, a hearty beef bone broth ramen that is a local specialty. From Kurayoshi Station, it’s a 5-minute walk to your dinner destination, Gottsuo, where you can enjoy an authentic taste of this mouthwatering dish. 

Gyukotsu ramen is a comforting and hearty type of ramen that is rare to find in other areas of Japan. The beef bone broth is simmered for hours to extract maximum flavor, resulting in a rich and savory soup. The noodles are cooked to perfection, and the tender slices of beef add a delightful texture and taste. Topped with fresh green onions and other garnishes, gyukotsu ramen is a must-try for any visitor.

Gottsuo, known for its excellent take on gyukotsu, offers a casual and welcoming atmosphere where you can enjoy this local specialty. The number of bowls is limited to 100 per day, so aim to arrive early since reservations are not possible.

Stay in Kurayoshi: Toco Toco Guesthouse

Access: Take the bus to bus stop “Sakaemachi” (10 minutes) and walk 5 minutes to reach Toco Toco Guesthouse

Located in the historical area of Kurayoshi, the White Wall Warehouse District, Toco Toco Guesthouse itself is a beautifully restored traditional building, featuring tatami rooms, wooden beams, and paper sliding doors. Staying here offers a unique opportunity to experience Japanese culture and history firsthand.

Toco Toco Guesthouse is perfect for families and small groups of friends since you can rent the entire house, which includes a small kitchen, living and dining areas as well as 2 bedrooms with a combination of bunk beds and regular beds.

The serene atmosphere and beautifully preserved surroundings provide a perfect end to your first day, offering a glimpse into the region’s historical charm before further explorations tomorrow. 

Day 2: Cultural and Historical Exploration

Explore Kurayoshi: White Wall Warehouse District

Start your day exploring the historical Kurayoshi White Wall Warehouses, a district known for its Edo (1603-1868) and Meiji period (1868-1912) buildings and traditional charm. The white-walled storehouses, with their distinctive “kura-zukuri” (warehouse) architecture, offer an interesting glimpse into Japan’s past. These buildings were originally occupied by breweries and soy sauce distilleries as well as used for storing goods, and have been beautifully preserved.

Stroll through the narrow streets lined with these white-walled storehouses, each building telling a story of Kurayoshi’s fascinating history. The area originally formed around Utsubuki Castle during the Muromachi period (1336-1392), and the nostalgic townscape also offers nice views of Mt. Ubutsuki and the pretty stone bridges spanning Tamagawa River. The red tile roofs create a beautiful contrast with the white plaster walls and provide great photo ops. 

Many of the warehouses have been converted into galleries, cafés and museums, one of them being Kura Cafe: a charming coffee shop located inside one of the traditional buildings. Here, you can enjoy a hot cup of coffee or a refreshing soda made with Tottori’s famous pears while people-watching and gazing at the picturesque surroundings and cobblestone streets. The cafe’s warm and inviting atmosphere, combined with its historical setting, makes it a perfect spot to relax and soak in the ambiance. 

Lunch: Sansai Cuisine at the Foot of Mt. Mitoku

Access: From Kurayoshi Station, take a bus to Mitoku (35 minutes) 

“Sansai” cuisine, featuring fresh and seasonal mountain vegetables, is a healthy and flavorful dining experience that reflects the region’s natural bounty. The dishes often include a variety of wild greens, mushrooms, and other locally sourced ingredients, prepared in simple yet delicious ways. 

One of the best places to enjoy sansai cuisine in this area is at Tanigawa Tengudo, a local restaurant at the base of Mt. Mitoku. The restaurant has a rustic charm, with wooden interiors, seating at low tables on tatami mats and views of the surrounding nature. The meals are carefully prepared, highlighting the natural flavors and nutritional benefits of the mountain vegetables. Common dishes include tempura, miso soup, and rice bowls, all featuring an array of fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Sanbutsuji Temple (Nageiredo)

Access: 1/2-hour hike from the entrance of the trail

After lunch, visit Sanbutsuji Temple, whose entrance is located just a few steps from the restaurant. 

Sanbutsuji Temple, believed to have been founded in the Heian period (794-1185), is a designated National Treasure of Japan. The temple complex includes several buildings, but the most famous is Nageiredo Hall, a small wooden structure built into a cliffside. The exact date of its construction is unknown, and it remains a mystery how the hall was built in such a seemingly inaccessible location. 

This ancient temple complex is worth visiting year-round, but is especially fulfilling when the precariously perched Nageiredo Hall can be visited by hiking Mt. Mitoku during the warmer months of the year. The hike up the mountain is challenging but rewarding, offering stunning views and a sense of serenity as you reach the temple.

The hike takes you through dense forests and steep trails. The path is well-marked but requires physical fitness and caution, as some sections involve climbing over rocks and using chains for support. The hike typically takes about 1-2 hours each way, depending on your pace and the weather conditions. 

Reaching Nageiredo Hall is a profound experience, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys on clear days. The hall itself, with its rustic wooden structure, provides a place for quiet reflection and meditation.

Stay in Misasa Onsen: Ryokan Ohashi

Access: Take the bus from bus stop “Mitokusan Sando Iriguchi” to “Onsen Iriguchi” (15 minutes)

After descending from your hike, conclude the day with a relaxing stay at Ryokan Ohashi in Misasa Onsen. Misasa Onsen is renowned for its high radon content, believed to have therapeutic properties, making it an ideal place to unwind and rejuvenate.

Ryokan Ohashi, a historic inn established almost a century ago, was originally constructed by shrine carpenters who were given complete freedom to unfold their creativity and craftsmanship. The result is stunning, with no two guest rooms alike. The beautifully designed rooms feature tatami mats, futon beds, and sliding paper doors for an authentic Japanese experience, and many rooms also offer views of the surrounding gardens or river. Some even boast private outdoor baths or indoor wooden “hinoki” tubs, or you can choose a room with a massage chair to heal your tired post-hike body. 

One of the highlights of staying at Ryokan Ohashi is the “onsen” hot spring experience. On top of the rooms featuring private baths, the “ryokan” (traditional Japanese inn) also has several communal indoor and outdoor baths, filled with natural hot spring water rich in minerals. Soaking in the onsen is not only relaxing but also believed to offer various health benefits, including improved circulation, relief from muscle pain and a stronger immune system.

Dinner at Ryokan Ohashi is a culinary delight, with “kaiseki” multi-course meals showcasing the best of Japanese cuisine. The kaiseki dinner includes a variety of seasonal dishes, each beautifully presented and carefully prepared with emphasis on local ingredients. From fresh sashimi and grilled fish to delicate tempura and savory soups, the meal is a feast for the senses.

After dinner, relax in your room and appreciate the tranquil ambiance before tucking into your comfortable “futon” (traditional Japanese-style bedding) for the night.

Day 3: Yokai Adventures in Sakaiminato

A Serene Morning in Misasa Onsen

Wake up early to explore the quiet village of Misasa Onsen. After enjoying a delicious breakfast at your accommodation, take a peaceful stroll along the river that flows through the town and enjoy the views from one of the iconic bridges, such as Misasa Bridge or Koitani Bridge, said to be a matchmaking power spot.

Misasa Onsen is known for its distinct Showa era (1926-1989) townscape, with retro galleries and shops lining some of the narrow streets. Pay a visit to Misasa Shrine, dedicated to deities of healing and health, and enjoy the serene morning atmosphere. 

After visiting the shrine, you can explore the village’s hot spring foot baths, which are scattered throughout the area. These public foot baths, known as “ashiyu,” offer a relaxing way to experience the therapeutic benefits of the hot springs. Simply sit down, dip your feet into the warm water, and enjoy the soothing sensation as you take in the beautiful surroundings.

A visit to the outdoor Kawara bath is also highly recommended. This famous mixed-gender bath located right on the riverbank is the very symbol of Misasa Onsen and not to be missed. The bath is open 24 hours, but is closed for cleaning in the morning on odd-numbered dates. 

Explore Sakaiminato: the City of Yokai

Access: Take the bus from Misasa Onsen to Kurayoshi Station (25 minutes), then board the train and make your way to Sakaiminato Station with one transfer on the way (total 1.5-2 hours, depending on connection).

As the childhood town of manga artist Mizuki Shigeru, Sakaiminato is famous for its celebration of the “yokai” (supernatural creatures appearing in Japanese folklore) from Mizuki’s stories, such as the popular GeGeGe no Kitaro series. You might realize that you are entering his realm of ghost stories even before arriving in Sakaiminato as many of the local trains are elaborately decorated with scenes and characters from his books.

Begin your exploration at the Mizuki Shigeru Museum, a must-visit for fans of manga and Japanese folklore, which offers an in-depth look at Mizuki’s life and work.

The exhibitions provide a fascinating insight into Mizuki’s creative process and the world of yokai, and visitors can see original drawings, learn about the different types of yokai as well as explore interactive displays that bring Mizuki’s characters to life.

After visiting the museum, take a stroll along Mizuki Shigeru Road, lined with 177 bronze statues of yokai characters from Mizuki’s manga. This whimsical street is filled with shops, cafes, and themed attractions, providing a fun and immersive experience for visitors of all ages. Each statue is intricately designed, capturing the unique personality and features of the yokai it represents. At night, statues are lit up and yokai shadows are projected onto the ground, making the street equally fun to explore after dark.

In Sakaiminato, you  might be tempted to skip proper lunch in favor of all the cute and quirky snacks molded over the yokai theme. Favorites include various types of bite-sized cakes and cookies stuffed with mouthwatering fillings ranging from classic “anko” red bean paste to watermelon and Tottori’s famous pears.

Medama - a popular character resembling a red-irised eyeball with legs often seen bathing in a teacup - is the inspiration for a wide range of kawaii-yet-creepy sweets and treats, such as eyeball baumkuchen or eyeball-decorated mochi rice cakes on sticks. 

Along Mizuki Shigeru Road, you’ll also find various shops selling yokai-themed merchandise, including toys, clothing, and souvenirs. With a wide range of products, from cute and quirky items to more traditional and artistic pieces, it’s a great place to pick up unique gifts and memorabilia from your visit.

Tottori Itinerary - Experience the Best of Tottori in 3 Days

Tottori Prefecture, with its stunning natural landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and delicious cuisine, offers a travel experience that is both diverse and deeply satisfying. Whether you’re exploring the ever-changing Tottori Sand Dunes, soaking in a hot spring in Misasa Onsen, marveling at the historical architecture of Kurayoshi or immersing yourself in Sakaiminato’s whimsical world of yokai, Tottori provides a perfect blend of adventure, relaxation, and cultural enrichment. Its serene beauty, warm hospitality, and captivating sights make it a must-visit destination for any traveler seeking to experience the true essence of Japan. Return from your trip with lasting memories of this enchanting region - and a desire to come back for more!