3 Days in Kyushu: Exploring Hidden Gems and Rich Culture in Nagasaki, Saga, and Fukuoka Via Public Transportation

[Day 3: Saga and Fukuoka Prefectures - a Journey Through Traditions, From Fish Markets to Ancient Shrines]

A day that starts with the breathtaking view of the sun rising on Karatsu’s bay be nothing but a blissful one. With a local morning fish market and a majestic shrine area waiting for us, we packed our stuff for our third and final day in Kyushu, ready to explore and experience some of the other intriguing traditions of this beautiful part of southern Japan.

Yobuko Asa Ichi - One of Japan’s Major Morning Fish Markets

As the little local bus bound to Yobuko proceeded on its way, we witnessed an entirely new side of Saga Prefecture rolling outside the windows. An ensemble of picturesque, wooden villages squeezed on steep, rocky shorelines composed a panorama so different from that of the Ariake Sea that we were impressed by how much of a continuous surprise Kyushu’s scenery is! As we stepped outside the bus, glancing at the tiny port of Yobuko, enclosed by a fragmented harbor, we felt like we were going on a completely new adventure. The Yobuko Morning Market is regarded as one of Japan’s prime morning fish markets thanks to its unique atmosphere and while venturing through its streets, we could see why.

The morning market and its buildings are a treasure trove of vintage details and heart-warming simplicity that shows how the area has remained true to its roots. The local elderly ladies and their very rustic stalls are the core and the stars of the market, carrying on the local traditions. They sell the day’s seafood catches as well as prepared foods, local vegetables and fruit, - last but not least - Yobuko’s specialty: squid. We couldn’t leave without trying it first, so we picked a box of “ika shumai” (squid dumplings) to save for later as well as some tempting squid savory pancakes to eat on the spot while enjoying the last few minutes in this quaint nook. As we were preparing to take the bus one more time and cross the border between Saga and Fukuoka Prefectures, we reflected that the very early start was totally worth it thanks to the lovely atmosphere we found at the morning market!

If you are curious to read more about this morning fish market, its history and traditions, and to see more of its vintage atmosphere, click here to read: Karatsu - the Kyushu’s Castle Town Where Samurai and Ceramic Traditions Merge.

Dazaifu’s Tenzan Honten - Feast on Fukuoka’s Giant Strawberries and Traditional Snacks

As we had woken up at dawn to experience the uniqueness of Yobuko’s market, it was just noon when we arrived in Fukuoka Prefecture. Continuing with the theme of "traditional Kyushu," we passed by Fukuoka City, heading south to discover the beauty of the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine area. The shrine area begins with its “Omotesando,” a traditional street that leads to the Dazaifu Tenmangu itself. Full of vintage shops selling local delicacies, the Omotesando creates a remarkable food scene that we were more than ready to dive into. After the savory treats we had in the morning, we were craving something sweet, so the delectable “wagashi” (Japanese traditional sweets) of Tenzan Honten ended up capturing our attention.

The wooden figure of Tenzan Honten stands almost at the beginning of the Omotesando, with all of its display cases filled with every type of strawberry-garnished sweet possible. These are not your average strawberries,however, but Fukuoka’s pride: the deluxe-quality Amaou Ichigo, a type of local strawberry renowned for its sweetness and size. From “ichigo daifuku” (a rice cake stuffed with red bean paste and a strawberry) to “ichigo dango” (a skewer of strawberries and rice dumplings) Tenzan Honten's sweets were a joy just to look at, not to mention to eat.

Despite these sweets being incredibly appealing, we already had our eyes on the shop’s best-selling “onigawara monaka,” a wagashi consisting of red bean paste in different flavors (we picked green tea), “mochi” (rice cake), and a giant strawberry sandwiched between two rice wafers. The most unusual part of this sweet is the rice wafer, which is not smooth like that of a normal monaka, but is shaped like an onigawara, a type of roof ornamentation found in traditional Japanese architecture depicting Japanese “oni” demons. It's a detail that all Japanese folklore enthusiasts like us will love! The staff handmade the monaka on the spot, selecting for us a strawberry that was so plump and shiny we started imagining how juicy and tasty it was even before having our first bite. No exaggeration intended, but knowing how expensive fruit normally is in Japan, when we actually bit into it we were about to shed tears of joy.

Even though Amaou Strawberries are only available from November to March, Tenzan Honten has a plethora of delicious sweets to offer during every period of the year. Their “warabi mochi” (a jelly-like confection made from bracken starch and covered in “kinako” sweet toasted soybean powder) for example were so fresh and chewy we could feell all the incredible attention the people at Tenzan Honten pay when selecting the ingredients and preparing their hand-made wagashi.

Starbucks Coffee Dazaifu Tenmangu Omotesando Store - Stop for a Coffee at a Starbucks Store Designed by One of Japan’s Most Famous Architects

After the most delicious dose of wagashi, a coffee break seemed like the perfect idea, so we walked a little further to the exact center of the omotesando, where a very unique Starbucks store stands. Starbucks Coffee Dazaifu Tenmangu Omotesando Store is one of Starbucks' Japanese regional landamark stores, a series of stores built in spots that are symbolic of each region of Japan and aim to spread the local culture to the world. As they are located all over Japan, we are slowly but steadily visiting them all, and we couldn’t miss the chance of taking a look at the incredible, traditional woodwork of the one in Dazaifu. Starbucks Coffee Dazaifu Tenmangu Omotesando Store is a project by the renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, who based the design on a concept of combining tradition, modernity, and natural materials, using 2,000 wooden beams to create an intricate cocoon that envelopes the exterior and interiors of the cafe. It surely was one of the most unusual places we ever had a Starbucks coffee at!

Dazaifu Tenmangu - Fukuoka’s Shrine for Learning, Culture, and the Arts with over 1100 Years of History

Dazaifu Tenmangu welcomed us at the end of the omotesando street, announcing with a pair of majestic “torii” gates, all the beauty we were about to see in its grounds. Dotted with red, arched bridges, ponds that beautifully reflect the forested surroundings, buildings covered in meticulously carved golden details, and a vibrant atmosphere, it was nice strolling in a green oasis of deep tradition and history. The 1000-year-old Dazaifu Tenmangu is one of Japan’s most important shinto shrines and attracts millions of visitors every year, among which students in particular come to pray for success in studying and exams. The reason behind this is that Dazaifu Tenmangu was built on the burial site of Sugawara no Michizane, a ninth-century court noble, politician, and scholar, who is enshrined here as Tenjin, the deity of learning, culture, and the arts.

Details associated with Tenjin can be found all over the shrine grounds, and we had fun identifying some of them along the way to the main hall. Firstly, we were careful not to miss the bronze statues of cattle sitting on the shrine premises. It is said that rubbing the head of one of these messengers of Tenjin will grant wisdom, so we proceeded to do so in hopes of receiving vast knowledge.

We then searched for all the traces of plum blossoms we could find, which was a harder task considering that at this point of the year trees didn’t have leaves anymore, and it was still too early for them to have flowers. Since Sugawara no Michizane particularly loved plum blossoms, Tenjin shrines are closely associated with plum trees, Dazaifu Tenmangu alone has 6,000 planted on the grounds. We could find a few, and even if it wasn’t the right season to admire them in full bloom, we were able to see the plum blossom symbol engraved on the main hall itself, as well as printed on the shrine’s “ema” (wooden plaques for prayers) and "omikuji" (small papers with blessings, remarks, and tips on one person’s future fortune).

Before leaving the shrine, we wanted to try at least one of the shinto traditions Dazaifu Tenmangu offers to all its visitors, so we stopped by the amulet counter for some omikuji (fortunes also available in English here.) Omikuji at this shrine are quite unique, since they change in color throughout the year, reflecting the hues of the different seasons. When we visited the shrine it was autumn, so we found the omikuji box full of yellow, orange, and red fortune papers. Once these were tied to the designated areas all by the many visitors who had drawn their fortunes, together they created a floating carpet of autumnal shades popping out against the shrine buildings.

Fukuoka Tower - A Goodbye to Beautiful Kyushu From This Iconic Landmark

We arrived at Fukuoka City at sunset on Friday, right when the city and its people were preparing for a sparkling weekend and a night out. We had a plane back to Tokyo to catch at Fukuoka Airport, but we still wanted to tick at least one spot off our bucket list, and without any minute to waste we swiftly headed to Fukuoka Tower. Rising 234 metres above Fukuoka, the imposing figure of Fukuoka Tower cuts the cityscape in half, mirroring the sky thanks to the 8,000  window panes that cover it. From the observation deck on the top floor, visitors can enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and the bay.

The night-time panorama from the tower is particularly popular and was also chosen as one of Japan’s top 100 night views, thanks to the ensemble of the glittering lights of Fukuoka skyline and the observatory’s floor, which is adorned with phosphorescent stones that shine like a starry sky. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to wait for the stunning evening views to appear, so we made ourselves content with a last round of souvenir shopping and a warm bowl of Fukuoka’s delicious and famed Hakata ramen before saying goodbye to Kyushu and all its wonders that had completely stolen our hearts for the past three days.

Explore Kyushu Via Public Transportation - a Journey Through its Hidden Gems

Now that we were at the end of this three-day trip to Kyushu, we could finally say it: at the beginning of this trip, we accepted the challenge of exploring some of Kyushu’s prefectures without the use of any rental car, and we did it! We were able to admire some of Kyushu’s hidden gems, taste its amazing food from land and sea, experience the kindness of the locals, the depths of its traditions, and the welcoming atmosphere of this charming land. We went back home in hopes to be able to return as soon as possible!

If you're looking to make a similar trip and want more information on Kyushu, check out their official tourism website "Visit Kyushu": https://www.visit-kyushu.com/en/

 

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