Indulge in a Vegetable Edomae Sushi Course: A Unique Way to Eat Tokyo-Style Sushi

*Not long after we published this, Sushi Hazan sadly stopped offering this vegetable edomae sushi course. They still serve up their regular Edomae sushi menu, and currently are running a sushi-making workshop that you can book in English.

Get a Taste of History With Sushi Hazan’s Edomae Sushi Experience

Framed by the glass and steel of Ropongi’s modern skyline is the quiet and elegant neighborhood of Azabu Juban. Here, Sushi Hazan and its chef, Kenichiro Hirai, were waiting to introduce us to the marvels of a meal interweaving the centuries-old tradition of Edomae sushi with intriguing vegetable pairings we’ve never seen before.

Being unable to handle spicy food very well - wasabi included - we’ve always been hesitant to go into premium sushi restaurants, as many orthodox establishments will automatically have wasabi directly on their sushi. But when we found out that Sushi Hazan’s menu is specifically created with each guest’s tastes, dietary restrictions, and allergies in mind, and we would be able to list our preferences on the reservation form in advance, we booked its Edomae sushi course without thinking twice, thrilled to finally enjoy a luxurious sushi experience and ready to have our eyes opened to a new world of sushi!

A simple interior that matched the elegant neighborhood outside appeared when we opened the door and took our seats inside Sushi Hazan. A counter of solid wood, clean white walls, and a few decorative pieces with “kanji” characters on them complemented the relaxed, sophisticated atmosphere of the restaurant.

On the table, the list of dishes included in our course meal (with an English translation) was already waiting for us, presenting an array of intriguing ingredients and combinations that made us even more curious to learn from the chef himself about what makes Sushi Hazan’s cuisine and Edomae sushi so special.

What Is Edomae Sushi? The History and Characteristics of Tokyo-Style Sushi

The reason for Edomae sushi’s uniqueness is found in the history and evolution of sushi itself.

“The main difference between Edomae sushi and common sushi is that the “shari” (sushi rice) for Edomae sushi is made with “akazu” (red vinegar) and the “neta” (topping) is often cured in some way, while today's sushi is generally served by placing fresh neta directly on top of shari,” explained Hirai when we asked about the difference between the two.

Although Japanese sushi is thought to have a history of around 1,200 years, it has not always been in the form we recognize today. Originally, steamed rice was mixed with “koji” yeast and just added to cover and preserve the fish by fermentation, but the rice was not actually eaten. This type of sushi, called “narezushi,” was more similar to pickles and was considered a delicacy served at the tables of aristocrats in the Nara period (710 - 794).

In the course of the Muromachi period (1336 - 1392), when narezushi evolved into “namanarezushi,” which had a shorter fermentation period and was eaten with rice, the culture of sushi started to spread to the common people, reaching wide popularity in the mid-Edo period (1603 - 1868).

With over one million people - and especially the working class - living in the city of Edo (modern-day Tokyo) at the time, street food sold at “yatai” food stalls was a popular way to eat a quick meal, and sushi was one of the dishes served. To satiate the huge demand, sellers had to come up with different ways to quickly prepare sushi and extend the edible life of ingredients. So, they started curing and treating the fish by adding salt or pickling it in soy sauce, and using akazu to preserve the integrity of the sushi rice. This specific type of vinegar, which has a stronger taste and aroma, also complements the cured neta to perfection.

As the seafood used was exclusively caught from Edo Bay, known as Tokyo Bay today, this style of sushi took the name of “Edomae sushi” or “(Caught) in front of Edo.”

The Secret Behind Sushi Hazan’s Extraordinary Dining Experience

An ingenious delicacy born out of necessity, the narration of Edomae sushi’s creation left us with a sense of renewed respect for the craft and made us appreciate each piece – and the work behind its preparation – even more. But the wonders of Sushi Hazan’s Edomae sushi don’t stop at it being steeped in such unique historical circumstances. From seasonality to surprising pairings and the sense of connection with the chef throughout the meal, we realized that Sushi Hazan’s vegetable Edomae sushi course was truly one-of-a-kind.

Feel Japan’s Seasons

Usually, when you think of sushi, you think of seafood, but chef Hirai mentioned how he wanted to create something that could let the guests enjoy an entirely new array of flavors, textures, and aromas. “It’s easy to get tired of eating sushi when all you eat for the entire meal is fish,” he said. “But at the sushi restaurant I used to work for, there was a side dish with vegan sushi. That inspired me to combine fish and vegetables and tie them together into an Edomae sushi course.” With so many vegetables and pairings possible - as we soon came to see for ourselves - you’ll arrive at the end of Sushi Hazan’s vegetable sushi course marveled by the deliciousness and hidden potential of Japanese vegetables.

“Of course, as vegetables are our main ingredient, we are also able to arrange sushi for vegans and vegetarians. We can easily customize the meal and guests can order different things, so it’s particularly convenient for groups too, " added Hirai proudly.

Appreciating the culinary power and versatility of Japanese vegetables also meant having the chance to experience a fundamental part of Japanese culture: seasonality!

The spirit of valuing each season is deeply rooted in Japanese culture. Since ancient times, classical poetry evoked the changing of seasons and in the Heian period (794-1185)  aristocrats started the tradition of “hanami” or admiring “sakura” cherry blossoms in spring. Reflected in different forms of art such as the “sado” tea ceremony, ukiyo-e, pottery, and more, the attention to seasonality is present in every aspect of Japan, including its cuisine.

Sushi Hazan’s vegetable Edomae sushi course embodies this significant aspect of Japanese culture and lets guests experience the blessings of Japan’s nature while enjoying the changes of the four seasons through the incredibly fresh and delicious vegetables selected specifically for the course menu of the day.

Surprising Ingredient Combinations

To ensure the finest culinary experience, not only does chef Hirai strictly buy what’s in season and arrange the menu accordingly, he also personally picked a secret selection of three brands of rice from three different prefectures, three different types of vinegar, and organic soy sauce and “mirin” cooking rice wine, thanks to which his sushi burst with flavor and left us wanting more until the very last bite!

With this already incredible base of ingredients, chef Hirai creates unexpected combinations that are the result of creative experimentation. He doesn’t like to plan recipes months ahead; instead, he prefers to test out ideas on the spot and trust the moment. “Some of my ideas didn’t work and I simply moved to the next idea,” he laughed. “But some are on the menu today, like the egoma wrap which, in the end, required me to boil the leaves to weaken the flavor as some love egoma and some hate it,” he told us.

Chef Hirai's culinary creativity in regards to Edomae sushi was apparent from the first dishes we were served; they tasted nothing like any other sushi we’ve had before. For starters, chef Hirai skillfully rolled and placed in front of us a “tuna herb roll” and a “vegetable roll.” The first packed a spectacular range of flavors as each edible herb and flower released its distinctive aroma in the mouth. The second mixed different seasonal ingredients such as “renkon” lotus root chips and “awabitake” mushrooms, presenting with each bite different textures and hidden aftertastes.

The innovative take of chef Hirai on many familiar dishes really shined throughout the appetizer selection of the course. We were particularly amazed by his version of a cabbage roll. “This is the last appetizer before I start serving nigiri,” he announced as he placed the tantalizing plate in front of us.

Cutting through the roll revealed a filling of savory “saba” mackerel perfectly contrasting the mellow sweetness of the sea urchin sauce served as garnishment. As we ate the last bite of the cabbage roll, chef Hirai surprised us by transforming the leftover sauce into another astounding dish. By placing some shari at the center of the plate, we now had an intriguing Japanese-style risotto in front of us. With the gentle creaminess of the sea urchin complementing the slightly tangy red vinegar-infused rice, it ended up being one of our favorite dishes from the course!

Connecting With Customers Through the Art of Edomae Sushi

After we licked our risotto plate clean, Chef Hirai moved on to the main part of the course. He skilfully cut a portion of squid for a “gunkan maki” into slices so thin and rendering it so buttery that we wondered what pushed him to step into the complex world of sushi and undergo years of hard training to achieve this level of skill.

As he crafted gorgeous vegetable nigiri in front of our eyes, we learned that chef Hirai actually started 18 years ago as a “washoku” Japanese cuisine chef, and later was drawn to sushi which led him to train at a renowned Michelin-starred Edomae sushi restaurant in Tokyo. Hirai narrated his interest in sushi making: “With washoku, you simply work in the kitchen and there’s no direct relationship with the customers, but I wanted to get the chance to hear and see their reactions and create a connection. This is why I became a sushi chef.”

Enriched by this narration, each morsel incorporated his passion for the profession, with the restaurant’s prized nigiri combinations – all showcasing the vibrant colors of the Japanese vegetables and arranged in a stunning and eye-catching way — being the epitome of his mission to present a different side of sushi to his guests. The “shiitake mushroom and gizzard shad nigiri” and the “menegi green onion sprouts and bafun sea urchin nigiri” let us experience a fascinating mix of contrasting flavors. Both pieces of sushi felt very luxurious and perfectly blended refined sweetness with sharper, clearer tastes.

One of the most unique items of the course we tried that day was definitely the “tomato and purple sea urchin nigiri.” We marveled at the way he prepared the tomato: so finely sliced that, at first glance, it resembled a piece of tuna nigiri. Sprinkled with salt, this nigiri boasted a delightful softness thanks to the sea urchin hidden beneath the slice of tomato.

To wrap up the course, chef Hirai let us pick two types of fresh fish from the selection available. He suggested we conclude with something rich such as “toro” fatty tuna and “nodoguro” blackthroat seaperch. Incredibly tender and boasting a sophisticated flavor, he mentioned that they are popular picks among customers. By the chef’s recommendation, the last two nigiri were served as “aburi” (lightly broiled), melting in our mouths and ending our experience at Sushi Hazan with a grand finale!

Having him explain his personal journey, guide us through the complicated yet fascinating world of Edomae sushi, and assist us in choosing the perfect sushi to conclude the course made the meal that much more special. To chef Hirai, directly getting to see the guests' faces or hearing them compliment the food is the biggest appeal of the profession. To us, those moments of connection made the time at Sushi Hazan even more authentic!

Unexpected Drink Pairings That Enhance the Natural Flavors of Edomae Sushi

As expected, even the beverages were not your usual ones. Different types of tea are served depending on the menu, for which chef Hirai was helped by a master tea sommelier. On the day of our visit, he had “gancha” prepared for us. This unique oolong tea from China only grows on rocky terrain in the mountains and has a wonderfully mellow, earthy taste that perfectly matches Edomae sushi.

For those who would love an alcoholic drink with their meal, you can opt for classic sake or go for the unusual choice of tequila. Wanting to experience as many of Sushi Hazan's unique combinations as possible but unsure of which alcoholic pairing to choose, we asked chef Hirai for his recommendation. The chef personally chose a type of tequila that he liked for its sweet aroma reminiscent of honey and that perfectly matched Sushi Hazan’s cuisine!

A Fine Dining Experience That Lets Guests Appreciate the Culture of Sushi With Peace of Mind

Dish after dish, we unveiled the marvels of Sushi Hazan’s vegetable Edomae sushi, and by the end of the meal, we were totally enamored with this style of sushi; fully convinced this was one of the best sushi experiences we’ve ever had!

Not only was the food sublime but also the ambience of the restaurant. Despite the traditional elegance of Sushi Hazan, thanks to chef Hirai, we completely felt at ease. To create that perfect relaxed atmosphere, he explained, they try to have a span of thirty minutes in between groups and a max of six guests when possible, making sure to always leave an empty seat in between one group and the other, making it really easy to book and experience the course with peace of mind.

Regarding how to eat sushi, the chef doesn’t really give specific instructions and wants the guests to savor the dishes as they prefer. “Sushi is a type of cuisine that the chef prepares in front of you, so guests might not be sure if the dish is complete, or if the chef has to still add anything else, or if they have to add soy sauce to it. Of course, if they have questions, I’m happy to guide them.”

Being our first time at a high-end sushi restaurant, chef Hirai assured us that there's actually no need for any special etiquette at Sushi Hazan, as for him, letting the guests enjoy the sushi is his objective, rather than strictly sticking to a set of rules. “My ultimate goal is to create a place where everyone can experience and deeply appreciate sushi at their own pace while relaxing and having fun,” he said smiling when inquired about his hopes for the future.

A Unique Way to Enjoy Sushi: Try Sushi Hazan’s Vegetable Edomae Sushi Course

Looking for an authentic sushi experience in Japan? Try Sushi Hazan’s luxurious vegetable sushi course through Wabunka and savor the charms of Japanese vegetables interwoven with the century-old tradition of Tokyo’s original style of sushi, Edomae sushi. It will be a once-in-a-lifetime culinary experience!

*Not long after we published this, Sushi Hazan sadly stopped offering this vegetable edomae sushi course. They still serve up their regular Edomae sushi menu, and currently are running a sushi-making workshop that you can book in English.

About Wabunka

We booked the experience introduced above through the Wabunka website. On this site, you can find a variety of Japanese cultural experiences such as tea ceremony, flower arrangement, sushi, Japanese confections, and “kintsugi” (repairing broken dishes with gold), and more that are available for international tourists and offered in English. If you are looking for an exceptional and authentic Japanese cultural experience, check out the options at Wabunka!

Website (English): Wabunka

 

*The experience introduced in this article was provided for free by Wabunka, but all opinions expressed in the article are the writer's own.