Discover Niigata's Wildlife and Gastronomic Culture at Fukushima Lagoon

What Is Fukushima Lagoon?

Just beyond the urban core of Niigata City, a bustling coastal metropolis on Japan's northwestern frontier, lies Fukushima Lagoon. This is the largest of the remaining lagoons that once dominated the Echigo Plain, from which the very name Niigata itself, meaning “new lagoon,” is derived.

Fukushima Lagoon is an expansive network of lakes, ponds, and wetlands spread out across 260 hectares. Its scenery alternates with the seasons, peaking in spring with photogenic “nanohana” canola flowers blooming on the banks throughout April. In winter, it becomes the home of migratory swans and geese, while summer fills it with a profusion of lotus plants and other greenery.

While largely off the radar for international tourists, there is an English-language tour of Fukushima Lagoon run by locals keen to take travelers into its depths. We took the bullet train from Tokyo to Niigata to join this tour and let our readers in on what they can find! You can also learn more and book the tour at the following website:

Book a Fukushima Lagoon Tour: https://edge-of-niigata.com/lagoon/

Day 1: Exploring Fukushima Lagoon Through the Skies and Waters

1:00 pm: Helicopter Tour Over Fukushima Lagoon

Our exploration of Fukushima Lagoon started with a helicopter ride, where we got to see its full scale from above. Departing from Niigata Airport, our helicopter was soon racing over the rice fields that blanket the Niigata suburbs, eventually arriving at the tangle of lakes, ponds, and rivers that make up Fukushima Lagoon.

With nothing to block our view, our eyeline swept across the expansive wetlands, which radiated a fresh summertime green, out to Mt. Gozu and the vast peaks behind it. Turning our gaze to the other side, we got a clear view of the mighty Sado Island, another of Niigata's landmarks, whose twin mountain ranges soared sharply out of the Sea of Japan.

2:50 pm: Fukushima Lagoon Boat Cruise

After flying back to Niigata Airport, we were returned to Fukushima Lagoon by car for some on-site exploration.

Awaiting us on the bank was a “katafune,” a long and narrow wooden boat traditionally used to navigate lagoons. We were helped aboard by Hasegawa, a local boatman born and raised near Fukushima Lagoon.

After revving deep into the waterways, Hasegawa switched off the motor and began steering with a wooden paddle. Soon, the swishing of water and calls of birdlife became as clear as the helicopter blades that had battered our ears earlier. Hasegawa added to the mood by singing us a local folk song as he pointed out growths of wetland flowers while periodically pausing to check crab traps.

Being midsummer, large swaths of the lagoon’s surface were covered in “hishi,” named “water caltrop” or “water chestnut” in English. Hasegawa plowed the boat into this floating forest, and began picking out the fruits in the roots beneath. True to their name, they had a watery chestnut flavor, providing an enjoyable snack to munch on as we continued through the maze-like channels.

Hasegawa then took us to another of the lagoon’s treasures: a pond of “onihasu,” a rare species of lotus known for their enormous lily pads. While their stubby flowers lacked the grace of the sacred lotus, their spiky shape and dark purple hue had a fierce and imposing look, and some of the lily pads were over a meter in diameter!

4:30 pm - Trying Fukushima Lagoon Food

Following the boat tour, we returned to land and took a breather at the resthouse facing the shoreline. This resthouse is a reconstruction of a traditional farmstead, with its reed-thatched roof and antique tools showcasing Niigata’s pre-modern scenery. In their free time, Hasegawa and the other lagoon workers can be found hanging out here, waiting for curious visitors to impart their wisdom on.

Inside was a traditional “irori” sunken fireplace, where we sat down for a meal of edible plants and fish sourced by Hasegawa from Fukushima Lagoon.

Hasegawa began by sharing his go-to lagoon snackーlotus seedsーfound in the showerhead-like flower stalks that grow wild in the waters. In one swift move, Hasegawa ripped it apart, plucked out the seeds, and began munching away like they were potato chips.

Intrigued, we accepted his invitation to try it. The simple, nutty flavor was refreshing, and breaking apart the stalks was incredibly satisfying.

Hasegawa had also whipped up a platter of other lagoon delicacies. We sampled sliced lotus stems simmered in vinegar, local rice steamed with lotus seeds, “zarigani” crayfish, and a bunch of other intriguing morsels that dwell in and around the waters. While some were a bit unusual, most were delicious, and they all represented the crux of the lagoon’s natural resources and local knowledge.

Accommodation: Bettei Koshi no Sato

Once the sun began to set, we set out on another short drive to the nearby Tsukioka Onsen, where we would be staying overnight at Bettei Koshi no Sato. This top-notch hotel was opened as the annex of Kahou, Tsukioka Onsen’s most esteemed traditional “ryokan” hot spring inn.

The hotel’s polished wooden decor gave off a sleek but cozy vibe; a welcome respite after gallivanting about the muddy lagoon. Our homely and spacious suite-style rooms rose high over the flat, rural surroundings, and were fitted with viewing spaces for unimpeded panoramas.

Dinner at Koshi no Sato was a full show of premium local ingredients, centered around Niigata’s acclaimed rice paired with farm-direct produce and catches from nearby seas and rivers. We were served a multitude of small dishes arranged into works of art themed around the season, allowing us to sample a bunch of unique flavors and cooking styles.

Day 2: Fun Activities at Fukushima Lagoon and Surroundings

6:00 am - Fukushima Lagoon Hiking and Bird Watching

After a restful night at Bettei Koshi no Sato, we returned to Fukushima Lagoon bright and early to see it at its most activeーthis time from the groves that enclose its banks.

Circling Fukushima Lagoon is a trail that winds through a collection of ponds meticulously maintained to preserve and display local wildlife. Guiding us along this trail was park ranger Sato, who took us through the history of Fukushima Lagoon while pointing out the native flowers that grew along the path.

Sato revealed that Fukushima Lagoon was originally ten times larger than it is today. With 13 rivers flowing in and just one going out, it often flooded the plains and wreaked havoc on farms. Over successive generations, the lords of the Shibata Domain, who ruled the area northeast of Niigata City, and other locals gradually drained it, creating new arable land protected by a system of canals and embankments, many of which remain today.

Continuing down the trail, we soon came across a resthouse fitted with spotting scopes for birdwatchers. 220 species of birds have been observed in Fukushima Lagoon, which is over half of the roughly 400 confirmed to live in Niigata Prefecture. While the iconic wintertime swans were still months from arrival, the lagoon was populated by flocks of magnificent egrets, cormorants, and spot-billed ducks hunting in the reeds.

Finishing our hike, we ascended the spiral-shaped View Fukushima-gata observation deck. Inside were multiple vantage points to soak in more peaceful panoramas of the lagoon, along with exhibits detailing the region’s history, wildlife, and culture, plus a camera to spy on animals in the lagoon.

10:00 am - Strolling Tsukioka Onsen

As we had spent most of the previous night enjoying the hotel, our guide next took us back to Tsukioka Onsen to see its buzzing daytime scenery. This quaint hot spring town is concentrated along a single street, lined with evocative wooden buildings selling local food and crafts.

We started at Tsukioka Onsen’s free footbath, where we soaked our feet in the natural (and extremely hot) waters in front of a Japanese umbrella arrangement. We then strolled down the main street, pausing to treat ourselves to “manju” steamed bunsーa Japanese hot spring stapleーthen up to the Moonlight Garden, filled with colorful pole-shaped lanterns.

Finally, we stopped at Gensen no Mori Park, where Tsukioka Onsen’s hot spring was unearthed 100 years ago while drilling for oil. The park now has a faucet dispensing hot spring water that, despite its purported health benefits, has earned the title of “Japan's most disgusting hot spring water.” A single sip will have you questioning your life choices as you're confronted with a taste reminiscent of boiled egg water. The aftertaste lingers, so proceed with caution!

11:40 am - Lunch at Nora Cucina

Nora Cucina is an Italian restaurant in an old Japanese banquet hall built over 100 years ago. Its ivy-covered brick facade encloses a spacious wooden interior, tactfully renovated to preserve the old framework and antique furniture.

On our way to and from Fukushima Lagoon, we passed countless fields and markets. Our guide informed us that this area is celebrated for its produce, most famously tomatoes, eggplant, and pork, which have inspired a thriving Italian scene.

The lunchtime course at Nora Cucina was arranged to present the best of this. It started with tantalizing appetizers like a plate of salami, quiche, and terrine utilizing local eggs, bacon, and vegetables, followed by arancini balls putting an Italian twist on Niigata rice.

Following this were the hearty mains of spaghetti dressed in tomato sauce topped with chunky bacon and eggplant, and a thick steak of succulent pork. The chefs generously stacked each with ample ingredients, giving us a full appreciation for their fresh, wholesome flavors. With yesterday's lagoon feast still fresh in our minds, the top-notch cooking at Nora Cucina showed us that while the form has been refined and modified, the local culinary scene is still alive and kicking.

1:00 pm - Sake Tastings at DHC Sake Brewery

While we had thoroughly experienced the area’s edible bounties, there was still one famous local product needed to complete our gastronomic journeyーsake! Niigata boasts the most sake breweries in Japan, and many have been based in the suburbs of Niigata City for hundreds of years.

To learn about the local sake culture, we headed to DHC Sake Brewery. While originally founded in 1908, Japanese beauty brand DHC took over this struggling brewery in 2016, honoring its traditions while reviving it with modern technology and fresh flavors.

Yukino, a brewery guide with a bubbly personality, took us on a tour of their inner workings. She demonstrated each step of the brewing process beside its respective piece of machinery, starting with the rice washing and soaking to the steaming, and finally the mixing, maturing, and bottling.

Yukino then sat us down in a gorgeous dining room for a sake tasting session. Three bottles of premium sake awaited our judgment, all brewed with Niigata rice.

As we sipped away, Yukino eagerly explained the differences between each sake and how they were achieved. The first was Yuten, served in a dark matte bottle, which had a sharp dry taste typical of Niigata sake. This was followed by the flashy Koshi no Bairi GOLD, whose similarly dry flavor was reined in by a honey-like aftertaste. The best was saved for last with the top-notch Koshi no Bairi Daiginjo Genshu, whose rice is shaved down to just a tiny speck to remove the gamey flavors in the outer layers, yielding a clean umami-rich character.

Experience Niigata’s Local Wildlife and Wisdom on a Fukushima Lagoon Tour

On this tour of Fukushima Lagoon, we encountered all kinds of native wildlife and saw first-hand the time-honored traditions of Niigata City. From wild food at the lagoon to exquisite Italian dishes, this tour also treated us to the full breadth of its remarkable culinary scene. While you can visit the spots in this article on your own, having locals share their knowledge made the experience all the more worthwhile, so we definitely recommend giving this Fukushima Lagoon tour a look!

Book a Fukushima Lagoon Tour: https://edge-of-niigata.com/lagoon/