An Evening With the Niigata Geigi - Japan’s Hidden But Friendly Geisha Scene

Who Are the Niigata Geigi?

“Geigi” are a kind of geisha that live and work in the historical Furumachi old town of Niigata City, which has served as its entertainment district since the Edo Period (1603-1867). Unlike their Kyoto counterparts, Niigata geisha remain largely undiscovered by the outside world, but their culture has similarly endured into the modern age.

Spread across the mouth of the Shinano River, the longest river in Japan, Niigata grew as a port of call on the prosperous “kitamaebune” trading route, which ran along the Sea of Japan between Hokkaido and Osaka. Traders, merchants, and sailors regularly stopped off at Niigata City, seeking fun and relaxation in the bustling laneways of Furumachi before continuing on their voyage.

Being the height of entertainment at the time, a geisha culture naturally sprung up in Furumachi to accommodate these visitors. Like most geisha in Japan, they painted their faces white, dressed in beautiful kimono, and donned elaborate black hairpieces. They trained in a number of arts, like dance, song, games, and conversation, and performed in traditional rooms called “ozashiki.”

At its peak, there were estimated to be 400 geigi working in Niigata, rivaling the famous geisha districts of Shinbashi in Tokyo and Gion in Kyoto.

Niigata Geigi in the Modern Age

However, as Japan modernized over the 20th century, geigi culture declined as tastes turned towards contemporary entertainment. By the mid-1980s, the number of geigi had dwindled to 60, and the youngest were already reaching their late 30s.

In a bid to stop the slide, the company Ryuto Shinko was established in 1987 with the financial backing of around 80 local companies. This was the first corporation in Japan to hire women and train them to become geigi, offering them social security benefits and covering all the costs of kimono and wigs to bring the job into the modern age.

Thirty seven years on, Ryuto Shinko continues to hire new geigi each year, and some continue working even after marriage and having children. While there are still less than 20 geigi working in Niigata today, the majority are now in their twenties and thirties.

Wandering Niigata’s Old Town Entertainment District

Keen to learn more about geigi, we took the bullet train up to Niigata City. After crossing the Shinano River on the stately Bandai Bridge, the urban cityscape that met us at Niigata Station steadily reformed into quaint cobblestone laneways and antique buildings, signifying that we had found Furumachi, the site of the old port town.

・Nabejaya Street - The Traditional Core of Furumachi

Nabejaya Street, crowned by its namesake restaurant Nabejaya (pictured above), is one of the handful of timeworn laneways still frequented by Niigata geigi today. The enormous three-story Nabejaya has been hosting geigi banquets since 1846, and its splendid wooden architecture and imposing white outer walls took us back to the days where geigi were a staple at any proper Japanese dinner party.

Traditional geigi “okiya” houses and training halls also line Nabejaya Street and the alleyways that cross it, and the only thing missing from its resemblance to Kyoto's Gion was the unbelievable lack of touristsーnot a single one in sight.

In addition to Nabejaya, there are 11 other prestigious restaurants scattered across Furumachi that are able to arrange geigi bookings for guests. Each was picked for embodying the spirit of Furumachi through impeccable service, top-notch cooking, and an authentic traditional atmosphere. We chose the restaurant Kappo Kiraku for our session, whose stylish lattice facade blended seamlessly with the Furumachi streetscape.

Meeting Our Niigata Geigi For the Evening

Seated in a tatami-matted banquet room, a mix of excitement and anxiety pervaded our thoughts as we readied ourselves to meet real Niigata geigi. Warm smiles and cheerful greetings flowed in as they entered, replacing our tension with a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere.

Like the maiko and geiko of Kyoto, Niigata geigi have ranks based on training and seniority, and we requested one of each for a complete look at the lifestyle. Apprentice geigi are called “furisode-san,” which comes from their long-sleeved “furisode” kimono. After gaining experience, furisode-san will be promoted to “tomesode-san,” and swap to a short-sleeved and formal “tomesode” kimono.

Ichiya was our furisode-san, a geigi in her early twenties with a bubbly personality and captivating aura. Together with her longer kimono sleeves, Ichiya flaunted a youthful, showy look typical of her rank. Tonight, she was dressed in a cream-colored kimono with a festive design and a hairpin of splashy blue flowers and goldfish, matching the vibe of the current summer season.

Our tomesode-san was Shiho, and even to our untrained eyes, the difference between her and Ichiya was stark. Her modest, refined purple kimono visibly elevated her status, furthered by a simple yet chic “kushi” comb and hairpin. Shiho’s mature look didn’t diminish her heartwarming personality, though, and we felt in good hands passing over the evening’s program to her and Ichiya.

Finally, we also had Aoi singing and playing the shamisen. After working for Ryuto Shinko in her youth, Aoi was the first Niigata geigi to open her own independent geigi house in 2015. Being at the highest rank, Aoi forgoes the typical white-face makeup and hairdo, and is affectionately called “one-san” (big sister) by Shiho and Ichiya.

The Art of Conversation - Chatting and Drinking With Geigi

Conversation is a big part of geigi entertainment, so we broke the ice by asking the most obvious question: Why did you become a geigi?

Shiho started: “I loved studying kimono growing up. After I graduated high school, I wanted to find a job where I could keep learning about kimono and traditional Japanese culture, and I realized that becoming a geigi was the perfect choice.”

Ichiya, on the other hand, grew up as a regular high school girl lacking any knowledge of geigi culture.

“Even though I was raised in Niigata, I didn’t even know about the existence of Niigata geigi. About a month before graduating high school, my mother showed me a photo of Shiho and the other Niigata geigi, and I immediately pictured myself standing with them. I applied for a job straight away. I didn’t have talent or abilities, I just took the interview, and they trained me in everything I needed to know afterwards.”

Shiho, Ichiya, and Aoi's polished speaking voices were likewise a joy to listen to. Their enunciation and pacing were natural yet carefully crafted, and their Japanese was easy to understand even for non-native speakers like us. They could even manage basic conversations in English! However, Aoi recommends hiring an interpreter for smoother interactions.

Rules and Manners: How to Fully Enjoy Your Time With Geigi

Niigata is long-used to the comings and goings of people from diverse backgrounds, and the relaxed and approachable demeanor of its geigi means that rigid rules and manners are surprisingly few.

“Compared to other geisha districts in Japan, Furumachi is super friendly!” exclaimed Shiho. “It’s not strict or scary, and if you’re unsure of something, all you have to do is ask us.”

Rather than a set plan, Niigata geigi arrive with little in mind. Instead, they judge the look of the customers and feel of the room to decide how they’ll act. “There’s no manual on how to be a geigi in Niigata. Instead we put all of our effort into making each moment enjoyable. Some guests want to take photos the whole time, or watch lots of dances, or simply chat and drink with us,” explained Aoi.

“In fact, we’re glad if you outright tell us what you want. That way, we can meet your expectations and you won’t have any regrets,” she added.

Aoi did, however, explain that geigi run on a tight schedule, and she wants customers to take all their photos before the session is finished, and not to delay them when leaving. She also added that while most foreigners know to take their shoes off inside in Japan, some don’t realize that you’re supposed to wear socks on tatami in restaurants. Plus, while geigi themselves aren’t bothered by what you wear, Furumachi restaurants tend to be formal, so a nice dinner dress code is the best bet (but something not too tight for sitting on the floor).

Drinking is also a big part of geigi hostessing, which will default to sake (Niigata has the most sake breweries in Japan), but you can also opt for beer, wine, or soft drinks. Geigi pride themselves on their “oshaku” serviceー the act of pouring drinks for guestsーand Shiho and Ichiya constantly had one eye on our cup ready to top it up. Both were also delighted when we poured them one in return.

Tales of Old Niigata Through Song and Dance

Following about an hour of lively conversation and drink, we asked Shiho and Ichiya to show us a traditional geigi dance. Aoi's shamisen and vocals provided the musical backdrop, while Shiho and Ichiya performed with props like paper fans, “tenugui” hand towels, and bamboo clackers, adding depth to the sound and narrative.

Geigi have their own original songs passed down through generations, many inspired by the seasons, customs, and lifestyles of old port town Niigata. Typically, geigi will perform a spring-themed song and a song of the current season (which was summer for us), along with several other staples like the “Niigata okesa,” which was originally passed down by boatmen from Kyushu.

While the lyrics went over our heads, we were hypnotized by the graceful, fluid movements of Shiho and Ichiya as they moved in seamless synchronization with Aoi’s beautiful singing. Ichiya performed first, using a fiery yellow and orange “sensu” folding fan to accentuate her movements, after which Shiho joined her with an “uchiwa” circle fan painted with willow leaves and river water, transporting us back to the Edo Period, when geigi strolling down willow-lined canals was an everyday scene.

Fun and Humbling Geigi Games

Traditional Japanese geisha games, called “ozashiki-asobi,” are another feature of geigi entertainment. These are mostly sake drinking games, but tea or soft drinks can be easily swapped in. Niigata geigi are known for their surprising stamina, often holding their own in drinking contests despite their petite frames. When defeated, they will graciously accept a loss, but they never surrender their glass without a challenge!

Most of the games played in Furumachi are standard in geisha districts throughout Japan. While simple, they demand surprising concentration, especially if you’ve already had a few. To warm up, we played Ichiya in “rock, paper, scissors,” called “janken” in Japanese. However, instead of the loser drinking, Shiho would shout “winner,” “loser,” or “draw” each round, and whoever matched her call would be the one who drank. Needless to say, it wasn’t long before we had to order another bottle of sake.

We then moved onto the classic geisha game “konpira.” Here, a small “ochoko” sake cup was placed upside down on a cushion. The geigi then began to sing together, and we took turns tapping the cup with an open hand in time to the music. If a player snatches up the sake cup, then the other must tap the cushion with a closed fist without breaking the rhythm. While easy at first, the tempo picks up the longer the game continues, and we soon fell into one of their trapsーending with another swig of sake.

There are lots of other traditional games to play with geigi, and most are easy to follow. Games are an excellent way to break the ice, especially with language barriers. If you have a game you want to play, Aoi recommends letting the restaurant know when booking so that she and the geigi can prepare ahead of time.

How and Where to Book a Niigata Geigi Session

To book a Niigata geigi session like we did, start by choosing one of the 12 Furumachi restaurants listed on the Ryuto Shinko website (Japanese only). Then, call the restaurant directly to make a reservation with geigi. Unfortunately, English service is not available, so it’s best to have a Japanese speaker organize it for you, or put in a request to your tour guide.

Niigata geigi can be booked for a minimum of one hour at 13,860 yen per geigi, and the price increases every 10 minutes (the price does not include food at the restaurant). For the best experience, we recommend one geigi for every 2-3 guests. For dances, you’ll need at least two; one to sing/play the shamisen and the other to dance. You can also make additional requests, like choosing furisode-san or tomesode-san, geigi games, meals alterations, and more.

For an additional fee, Ryuto Shinko can also send geigi to other restaurants in Niigata. They are also registered with the ANA Crowne Plaza Niigata hotel, letting overnight guests enjoy the company of geigi while having dinner at their accommodation.

Book the ANA Crowne Plaza Niigata

Niigata geigi also make regular appearances at local events in Niigata City, such as the Niigata Festival in mid-August (pictured). The Ryuto Shinko Instagram regularly shares what the geigi are up to, so take a look and see if anything lines up with your visit to Japan.

A Hidden Geisha Culture in Niigata

We finished our Niigata geigi session at Kappo Kiraku feeling blessed to have been treated to the talents of Aoi, Shiho, and Ichiya. Their refined demeanors, beautiful singing and dancing, lively conversation, and amusing games were all a joy to watch and join, and their friendly personalities made us feel totally at home. With a better work-life balance and younger recruits joining the ranks, it’s comforting to know that Niigata geigi culture is set to continue as it has since the old days of Niigata Port. If you’re looking to add a geisha dinner to your Japan trip, we wholeheartedly recommend booking a geigi restaurant in the charming laneways of Furumachi!