Yamagata 4-Day Itinerary: Snow Monsters, Hot Springs, and Ancient Temple Hikes

What Sort of Place Is Yamagata?

Yamagata Prefecture sits at the bottom of the west side of the Tohoku region, in northern Japan. It stretches from the Sea of Japan to the middle of the mountainous Honshu mainland. Yamagata Prefecture borders Niigata, Fukushima, Miyagi, and Akita prefectures, and is divided into its own four sections of Murayama (east), Shonai (west), Okitama (south), and Mogami (north). It has a diverse terrain ranging from the comparatively flat coastal plains (Shonai) to the mountainous inland (Murayama, Mogami, Okitama).

One of Japan’s snowiest regions, Yamagata is a paradise for skiers and snowboarders, while hikers, swimmers, and nature enthusiasts of all kinds have plenty to do during its milder seasons.

The largest city in Yamagata Prefecture is its capital Yamagata City, which has a modest population of around 250,000, while its other major cities sit at 100,000 residents, give or take. This keeps Yamagata free of the crowds common in Japan’s more populous regions like Kanto and Kansai, making it an attractive alternative for travelers aiming to avoid congestion.

Tip: If you’re looking for a more general idea of things to do in Yamagata, check out our picks for the 15 Best Places to Visit in Yamagata Prefecture!

How to Get to Yamagata From Tokyo

Yamagata is best reached from Tokyo on the Yamagata Shinkansen bullet train, an offshoot of the Tohoku Shinkansen line. It connects Tokyo Station and Yamagata Station in around 2 hours and 45 minutes, and finishes at Shinjo Station in the north of Yamagata.

Yamagata Station and many other local stations are also covered under the JR East Tohoku Area Pass, which grants unlimited travel on JR bullet trains, JR local trains, and more around Yamagata and neighboring regions like Miyagi, Iwate, Fukushima, and Akita for five consecutive days.

All of the destinations in this Yamagata itinerary can be reached via public transportation. However, services in Yamagata can be very limited, so we recommend renting a car if possible. We’ll cover both driving and public transportation routes, but you may want to adjust your Yamagata itinerary depending on the actual train and bus timetables when visiting.

Day 1: Yamagata City and Zao Onsen’s Snow Monsters

This Yamagata itinerary kicks off in Yamagata City with a stroll around the historical attractions near Yamagata Station. You’ll then head into the mountains east of the city to bathe in the ancient hot springs of Zao Onsen while enjoying its luscious snowfall and other seasonal splendors.

Kajo Park and the Yamagata Castle Ruins

Access: Approx. 10-minute walk from Yamagata Station.

The leafy urban Kajo Park was once the site of Yamagata Castle, said to have been first built in 1356 and expanded by subsequent ruler Mogami Yoshiaki (1546-1614). Remnants of its castle moat, earthen walls, and stone walls hint at its former glory, while magnificent reconstructions of the castle gate and bridge make it easy to picture its glory days. Springtime visitors will also be treated to a barrage of around 1,500 cherry blossoms lining the moats and more.

Also in Kajo Park is the charming retro Saiseikan Old Hospital Building, built in 1878 and moved to the grounds in the 1960s. In addition, those extra-curious about Yamagata’s history and culture will find plenty of answers at the nearby Yamagata Prefectural Museum, Mogami Yoshiaki Historical Museum, and Yamagata Museum of Art.

Yamagata Bunshokan

Access: Approx. 15-minute walk from Kajo Park.

Yamagata Bunshokan is an opulent European-style structure that opened in 1916 as the prefectural office and assembly hall of Yamagata. Following its closure in 1975, it was restored and rebranded as the Yamagata Folk Museum, open to visitors without charge. After marveling at the grand exterior, crowned by the second-oldest working clock in Japan, enter to explore its many extravagant rooms and halls, preserved as a time capsule of early modern Japan.

Lunch: Yonezawa Beef Tokiwa

Access: Approx. 25-minute walk from Yamagata Bunshokan.

Yonezawa Beef is Yamagata’s challenger to the world-famous Kobe Beef. While often attached to a hefty price tag, its melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich umami flavor promises nothing but satisfaction. Yonezawa Beef is sourced from the finest Japanese Black heifer cows raised under stringent conditions, and the low melting point of its fat prevents it from sitting on the stomach.

Yonezawa Beef is produced further south around Yonezawa City, but it is widely available at restaurants in Yamagata City, too. One of the most reputable is Yonezawa Beef Tokiwa, just a 2-minute walk from Yamagata Station. Its menu serves Yonezawa Beef in several different dishes, such as steak, “shabu-shabu” hotpot, “yakiniku” flame-grilled barbeque, and even rare in a yukhoe-style meal. If you lack time for a sit-down lunch, Yonezawa Beef Tokiwa also sells take-out bentos with Yonezawa Beef and a variety of other dishes.

Zao Onsen

Access:
・Car: Approx. 30-minute drive from Yamagata Station. There are several rental car companies near Yamagata Station. Be sure to book in advance.
・Public transport: Approx. 40-minute ride on the Yamako Bus from Yamagata Station (departs roughly every hour).

Tucked at the base of the Zao Mountains, Zao Onsen is famous for its cloudy hot spring waters, spacious skiing slopes, and surreal frost-covered fir trees dubbed “snow monsters.” There are 47 sources of geothermal water throughout Zao Onsen, much of which has a milky hue with highly acidic sulfur properties said to heal ailments and beautify the skin. Zao Onsen’s hot springs are believed to have a history spanning over 1900 years, and there are many traditional “ryokan” hot spring inns and casual day-spas dotting the town.

Dozens of ski lifts are also scattered about Zao Onsen, many within walking distance of hotels. These provide access to 14 slopes of 12 courses suiting beginner, intermediate, and advanced levels. The Zao Onsen skiing season generally spans early December to early May, allowing a wide window to take advantage of its top-quality snow. The highlight is the 8-kilometer-long Juhyogen Course, which starts from the top of the mountain and runs between the snow monster trees.

Zao Ropeway (Zao Sanroku Station)

Access:
・Car: Near the center of Zao Onsen, parking is available.
・Public transport: Approx. 10-minute walk from the Zao Onsen Bus Terminal.

Whether you ski or not, a ride on the Zao Ropeway is the best way to appreciate Yamagata’s magnificent mountains. In winter, a swarm of snow monsters can be viewed from high above, and then again up-close at the ropeway stations. They are also lit up in colorful light at night around mid-December to late February, and the ropeway extends its hours to let visitors revel in this otherworldly scene amidst the bone-chilling cold.

In the warmer months, passengers aboard the Zao Ropeway will see the mountain bristling with fresh greenery and wildlife after its long burial in snow. 100 meters from the summit station is Zao Jizo Son, a sacred statue of the Buddhist guardian of children and travelers erected in 1775. Autumn travelers, meanwhile, will witness Zao engulfed in red, orange, and yellow foliage, creeping up the mountainside from late September and peaking in October.

Tip: Zao Ropeway first stops at Juhyo Kogen Station partway up the mountain, after which you’ll need to board another cable car to reach Jizo Sancho Station on the summit.

Hotel in Zao Onsen: Zao Onsen Omiya Ryokan

Access:
・Car: Approx. 3-minute drive from Zao Sanroku Station.
・Public transport: Approx. 10-minute walk from Zao Sanroku Station.

Zao Onsen Omiya Ryokan has a gorgeous “Taisho roman” design blending traditional Japan with vintage Western aesthetics. It has its own bathhouse directly fed by Zao Onsen’s hot springs, and serves authentic Japanese “kaiseki” cuisine with premium ingredients like Yamagata beef for dinner. Staying at Omiya Ryokan also grants you free access to three local Zao Onsen bathhouses to enjoy Yamagata’s hot spring waters to their fullest.

Day 2: Ancient Mountain Temples and Dreamlike Hot Springs

Follow up the first day’s urban explorations by adventuring into the spiritual mountains of Yamadera, then re-energize at Ginzan Onsen, another of Yamagata’s famous hot spring towns.

Yamadera

Access:
・Car: Approx. 40-minute drive from Zao Onsen.
・Public transport: Take the bus back to Yamagata Station (approx. 45 mins), then board a train on the JR Senzan Line bound for Sendai and get off at Yamadera Station after 17-20 minutes. Walk 5 minutes to the Yamadera trailhead.

Yamadera, formally named Hojusan Risshakuji, is a thousand-year-old temple complex spread over an entire mountain. The one-hour, 1015-step trail to the uppermost Okunoin Hall is an unbroken cascade of striking Buddhist structures and scenic views, immortalized in the works of Japan’s most famous haiku poet, Matsuo Basho (1644-1694).

Near the Yamadera trailhead is the Konponchudo Hall, which is the oldest beech wood building in Japan, and is home to the “eternal flame” that has been burning for over 1,000 years. Other highlights along the route include the iconic cliffside Kaisando and Nokyodo temples (pictured), and the Midahora Rock, where the image of a Buddha is said to have been formed by erosion.

Tarumizu Ruins

Access:
・Car: Approx. 3-minute drive to Senjuin Temple from the Yamadera trailhead.
・Public transport: Approx. 15-minute walk to Senjuin Temple from the Yamadera trailhead.

If you still have energy after descending Yamadera (and don’t fret, another rejuvenating hot spring stay is coming up!), then we recommend continuing onto the nearby Tarumizu Ruins.

This area, called Minenoura, consists of several parts, with the Tarumizu Ruins being the most famous. It’s where the founder of Yamadera, Buddhist monk Ennin, is said to have undergone his ascetic training. The trail starts from Senjuin Temple, and quickly becomes a bushy mountain path lined by small shrines.

Following it for 15 minutes will bring you to the Tarumizu Ruins, an open cave of warped white rock with honeycomb-like holes cradling a solemn wooden torii gate. Continuing on the mountain trail will take you past the remains of other worship sites, used for over 1,000 years. Gazing upon the ethereal landscape, it's easy to imagine the profound thoughts and inspirations that ancient monks must have had here.

Lunch: Takifudo Kisoba

Access:
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from Senjuin Temple.
・Public transport: Approx. 20-minute walk from Senjuin Temple.

Before leaving Yamadera, stop at Takifudo Kisoba for a well-earned soba or ramen lunch. Takifudo’s soba noodles are renowned for their distinctive sweetness and firm texture, crafted exclusively from high-quality "sarashinako" buckwheat made from the heart of the grain.

Ginzan Onsen

Access:
・Car: Approx. 60-minute drive from Yamadera.
・Public transport: Take the JR Senzan Line back to Yamagata Station (approx. 15 mins). Board the express train on the JR Ou Main Line for 40 minutes or the Yamagata Shinkansen for 30 minutes to Oishida Station, then take a 15-minute bus ride to Obanazawa, and a 40-minute bus ride to Ginzan Onsen. Alternatively, book a shuttle bus from Oishida Station when reserving accommodation at Ginzanso.

Ginzan Onsen is a charming hot spring resort town, where quaint wooden inns bathed in gaslight render a scene straight out of Spirited Away. Ginzan Onsen’s history stretches back 500 years to its founding as a silver mine, after which the discovery of hot spring waters rich in sulfate and sodium-chloride saw it develop into the healing retreat we know today.

While mostly concentrated around a single street, Ginzan Onsen has a lot to offer. Wander around to find Warashi-yu, a free outdoor footbath by the river; then soak your entire body at Shiroganeyu, a stylish public bathhouse designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma.

There’s also a trove of street food to munch on in Ginzan Onsen, like tofu from Nogawa Tofuya, who have been making tofu for over 100 years; and curry bread at Haikara-san Dori. While walking, keep an eye out for the colorful, intricate plaster reliefs that adorn the Ginzan Onsen inns.

Shirogane Park and Silver Mine Cave

Access: 5-minute walk from the Ginzan Onsen Tourist Information Center.

After surveying the streets of Ginzan Onsen, venture out into Shirogane Park on the edge of town. At the park entrance is Shirogane Falls, a beautiful 22-meter-tall waterfall that you can walk right up to. Deeper in the park is the smaller Raion Falls, whose whitewater pops out against the red curved bridge overhead.

A further 15 minutes into Shirogane Park lies the entrance of Silver Mine Cave, once part of the Nobesawa Silver Mine. Mining began during the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), growing into one of Japan’s biggest silver mines before shutting in 1689 following dwindling silver supply and a large mine collapse. Out of the 53 tunnels in Ginzan Onsen, only Silver Mine Cave is open to the public. Its 20-meter-long path is like a gallery of ancient mining techniques, most apparent from the blackened walls where rock was weakened through heating and cooling with water.

Hotel in Ginzan Onsen: Ginzanso

Access: 10-minute walk from Shirogane Park.

Ginzanso’s traditional Japanese rooms promise a serene sleep, while its spacious shared open-air and indoor hot spring baths melt away fatigue. Meals are centered around premium local ingredients, including Yamagata Black wagyu beef. Ginzanso also offers a convenient shuttle bus service to and from Oishida Station, saving you those extra bus trips!

Day 3: Historical Treasures Along the Sea of Japan

After spending two days in Yamagata’s mountainous inland, cut across the prefecture to its coastal plains on the Sea of Japan. Here, you’ll tour small cities like Sakata and Tsuruoka teeming with history based on maritime trade, fishing, and rice production. You’ll also switch from beef to seafood, and sample local sake brewed from the delicious rice grown on the Shonai Plain!

Homma Museum and Homma Residence

Access:
・Car: Approx. 1.5 hour drive from Ginzan Onsen.
・Public transport: Return to Oishida Station, and take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Shinjo Station (approx. 15 minutes). Then, take a train on the Rikuu West Line to Sakata Station (approx. 1 hour). The Homma Museum is a 5-minute walk from Sakata Station. There are also free rental bicycles at the Sakata Tourist Information Center in front of Sakata Station.
*Note: As of July 2024, replacement buses are running on the Rikuu West Line due to construction works.

The first coastal city on our Yamagata itinerary is Sakata, where you’ll find the Homma Museum. The Homma Museum is situated in a beautiful antique Japanese building with an exquisite garden constructed in 1813 by the Homma family, said to have been Japan’s biggest landowners during the Meiji Period (1868-1912).

The residence originally served as a guesthouse for dignitaries of the Shonai Domain and the Imperial Family, and it even accommodated Emperor Showa (Hirohito) in 1925. It reopened as a museum in 1947, presenting a collection of treasures acquired by the Homma family, such as historical documents, tea utensils, and other priceless artifacts.

Through the Homma Museum’s sumptuous architecture, you can feel the former wealth of the region, which prospered as a port of call on the Kitamaebune shipping route linking Osaka and Hokkaido. After admiring the indoors, step into the garden to appreciate its white azalea bushes, maple trees, and carp-filled pond with its own tiny island and bridge. Afterwards, soak it all in with a cup of coffee or matcha at the retro-style museum cafe.

History fans can also wade deeper into the Homma legacy at the Homma Residence, just a 5-minute drive or 15-minute walk away. The Homma Residence was built by the family in 1768 for the ruling Sakai Clan to accommodate inspectors from the Tokugawa Shogunate, and was eventually returned to the family and lived in until 1945. It features a unique blend of two architecturesーthe original samurai design and merchant design that was added when the family moved inーand its imposing long gates, rustic kitchen, and 400-year-old pine tree are worthy of up-close inspection.

Sankyo Soko Storehouses

Access:
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from the Homma Residence.
・Public transport: Approx. 10-minute walk from the Homma Residence.

The Sankyo Soko Storehouses are Sakata’s most well-known tourist attraction. Built in 1893 to store rice before shipping, they were the backbone of the city’s prosperity. The site contains nine storehouses, built from wood with white plaster walls and earthen floors and a triangular double roof to naturally prevent humidity. Amazingly, they were still used to hold rice up until 2022, totaling 129 years of service.

Behind the storehouses is a charming cobblestone path lined by 150-year-old Japanese zelkova trees, planted to block out the summer heat. While most storehouses have been preserved as is, others have been tactfully renovated into facilities like a cafe, a shop selling local crafts, and a museum. Those staying the night in Sakata can also see the storehouses illuminated from sundown until 10:00 pm.

Lunch: Tobishima

Access:
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from the Sankyo Soko Storehouses.
・Public transport: Approx. 10-minute walk from the Sankyo Soko Storehouses.

Along with rice, Sakata has a fishing port with a good-sized market selling catches direct from the Sea of Japan. On the second floor of the Sakata Seafood Market is Tobishima, a casual eatery serving up fresh and premium seafood dishes at cut-throat prices, including “kaisen-don” seafood rice bowls, sashimi, and more.

Tsuruoka Park

Access:
・Car: Approx. 30-minute drive from Tobishima.
・Public transport: Walk back to Sakata Station. Take a train on the Uetsu Line bound for Tsuruoka or Niigata (approx. 20-30 mins, depending on service) and get off at Tsuruoka Station. Walk approx. 25 minutes to Tsuruoka Park, or board the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen and get off at Shiyakusho-mae (approx. 10 mins). There are also free rental bicycles at FOODEVER in front of Tsuruoka Station.

Tsuruoka Park was built on the ruins of Tsurugaoka Castle, the base of the ruling Sakai Clan for around 250 years. Today, the remains of moats and castle walls bristle with beautifully manicured vegetation, including ancient cedar trees and hundreds of cherry blossoms that dye the grounds pale pink in mid-April, ranked as one of Japan’s Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots.

At the center of Tsuruoka Park is Shonai Shrine, founded by citizens of the Shonai Domain in 1877 to show their respect to the Sakai clan after they lost their position following the Boshin War in 1868. Tsuruoka Park also contains Taihokan, an elegant Western-style building constructed in 1915 now used as a museum of famous local figures.

Tsuruoka Park is also encircled by many other historical attractions. Must-sees include the Chido Museum, whose grounds hold a collection of impressive Edo and Meiji era buildings such as the Former Nishitagawa-gun Government Office and Former Tsuruoka Police Station. Facing the opposite end of Tsuruoka Park is Chidokan, a Han school built by the Shonai Domain in 1805 to educate citizens, and is the sole surviving such school in the Tohoku region.

Kamo Aquarium

Access:
・Car: Approx. 20-minute drive from Tsuruoka Park.
・Public transport: Return to Tsuruoka Station. Take the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen (via Kamo) for approx. 40 minutes and get off at Kamo Suizokukan (Kamo Aquarium).

Kamo Aquarium is known for its spellbinding displays of over 80 species of jellyfish. The pinnacle is the enormous circular tank containing 10,000 moon jellyfish lit in hypnotizing colors. Kamo Aquarium also has freshwater and saltwater fish tanks, a seal pool with shows, and other aquatic exhibitions to enjoy. There is also a restaurant where you can dine on jellyfish cuisine like jellyfish ramen and ice cream!

Admissions to Kamo Aquarium close at 4:00 pm, so if you’re running short on time, we suggest adding another day to your Yamagata itinerary, or visiting on day four instead.

Hotel in Tsuruoka: Shonai Hotel Suiden Terrasse

Access:
・Car: Approx. 20-minute drive from Kamo Aquarium.
・Public transport: Return via bus to Tsuruoka Station, then take a taxi to Shonai Hotel Suiden Terrasse (approx. 7 minutes).

Nestled in a field of rice paddies, Shonai Hotel Suiden Terrasse delivers an immersive stay in the heart of Tsuruoka’s culture and landscape. The warm wooden interior and sleek contemporary design strike a perfect balance between chic and cozy. The apartment-style rooms offer ultimate privacy, along with fantastic views to admire the surrounding beauty. Along with natural hot springs and farm-to-table dining, guests can join activities like river trekking, fly fishing, e-bike tours, yoga, and more.

Day 4: Walking the Ancient Trails of Dewa Sanzan

Your adventure in Yamagata finishes at Dewa Sanzan, meaning the “Three Mountains of Dewa,” which is the collective name for the interconnected peaks of Mt. Gassan (1984 m), Mt. Yudono (1500 m), Mt. Haguro (414 m).

Dewa Sanzan’s history is said to have begun over 1,400 years ago, and it continues to be a stronghold of “Shugendo” mountain worship, a unique faith that blends Shintoism and Buddhism. White-robed "yamabushi" monks traverse the mountain trails, and those fortunate enough to witness them will feel like they’ve stepped into another realm.

Hiking Mt. Haguro

Access:
・Car: Approx. 25-minute drive to the Zuishinmon Gate from Shonai Hotel Suiden Terrasse.
・Public transport: Return to Tsuruoka Station, and take the bus bound for Ideha Bunka Kinenkan-mae/Haguro Zuishinmon-mae, and get off at Haguro Zuishinmon-mae (approx. 40 mins).

For this Yamagata itinerary, we recommend Mt. Haguro, which is hikable in 90 minutes. It’s also well-connected by local bus, running directly to the summit from Tsuruoka Station. Mt. Haguro is the only Dewa Sanzan mountain that is open all year round, although winter snowfall necessitates long and sturdy boots.

Connecting the trailhead and summit of Mt. Haguro is a stone pathway lined by 300-year-old cedar trees and a tapestry of other verdure. Dwarfing it all is the colossal Jisugi (Grandpa Cedar), which has stood on Mt. Haguro for 1,000 years.

Before long, you'll encounter Mt. Haguro’s magnificent Five-Storied Pagoda, its rustic wooden structure harmonizing with the forest surroundings. Reconstructed approximately 600 years ago, it’s the oldest of its kind in the Tohoku region, and is believed to have been originally built by 10th-century samurai Taira no Masakado.

At the summit of Mt. Haguro is Dewa Sanzan Shrine, which enshrines all three Dewa Sanzan mountains. You’ll immediately be taken back by its vivid vermilion color and tremendous curved thatched roof, which is over two meters thick. The present Dewa Sanzan Shrine was reconstructed in 1818, and it faces a serene pond where countless bronze mirrors have been ritually deposited into its waters over the centuries, with around 600 retrieved to date.

Other Dewa Sanzan Hikes: Mt. Gassan

Access:
・Car: Approx. 90-minute drive to Gassan 8th Station from Tsuruoka Station.
・Public transport: Take the bus bound for Gassan 8th Station from Tsuruoka Station, and get off at Gassan 8th Station (approx. 120 mins)
*Bus only operates during certain periods in the climbing season.

Those itching for another adventure can also hike Mt. Gassan, the tallest of the Dewa Sanzan, famous for its primeval beech forests and alpine plants, including over 130 species of flowers.  You can reach Mt. Gassan’s 8th Station by car or bus, after which the summit is a 2.5-hour hike. There is also a 60-minute boardwalk loop over the wetlands at the 8th Station.

Other Dewa Sanzan Hikes: Mt. Yudono

Access:
・Car: Approx. 55-minute drive to the Senninzawa Parking Area from Tsuruoka Station.
・Public transport: Take the Mt. Haguro/Mt. Yudono Shuttle Bus from Tsuruoka Station, and get off at Mt. Yudono Senninzawa (approx. 2 hours and 15 minutes).
*Shuttle bus only operates during certain periods in the climbing season.

Further south is Mt. Yudono, another tall peak housing Yudonosan Shrine and serving as a training ground for local monks. Experienced hikers can reach Mt. Yudono from Mt. Gassan, or you can walk to Yudonosan Shrine in 20-30 minutes from the nearby Senninzawa Parking Area (a limited bus service connecting the two is also available during certain periods).

Tip: Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono are only open for a short period in summer and autumn. Always confirm the opening dates before visiting.

Experience the Best of Yamagata in 4 Days!

This 4-day itinerary covers the best things to do in Yamagata, spanning the mountainous inland to the breezy coastline. On this Yamagata itinerary, you’ll soak away fatigue in two ancient hot spring resorts, ascend spiritual mountains topped by prestigious temples and shrines, and explore a plethora of fascinating historical buildings and relics. Between destinations, you’ll also be chowing down on Yamagata’s best food, including Yonezawa Beef, local soba, fresh seafood, and more. Use this Yamagata itinerary to begin uncovering the appeal of this remote and intriguing region of Japan!